One of the questions I get asked most often is: “What’s the difference between your round and flat goosling patterns?” It’s such a great question, and I thought it deserved a proper answer here on the blog!
I’ve designed my goosling patterns in two versions to suit different knitting styles and comfort levels. Let me walk you through both so you can choose the one that feels right for you.
Knit your own adorable gosling with this My Lover Gosling Toy Knitting Pattern! 🐥 This step-by-step guide (with photos & video) makes it easy to create a cuddly handmade toy in one piece—no complicated assembly required. Instant download available—happy knitting! 🧶✨
This version is worked seamlessly from head to feet as one complete piece, much like knitting socks. If you’ve ever knit a sock, you’ll feel right at home! You work only in knit rounds (no purling!), and the magic happens as you go — the toy literally shapes itself in your hands. I love this method because you can stuff the goosling as you knit, which means no surprises at the end.
The wings are picked up directly from the body and worked in the round, so there’s minimal sewing involved. The beak is knitted separately in the round and then sewn on. Finally, you embroider the eyes with black thread, and your goosling is complete!
For this version, you’ll need either 5 double-pointed needles, Magic Loop, or something like Addi Crazy Trio — whatever circular knitting method you prefer. I’ve even included a video link in the pattern showing all three techniques!
Knit your own adorable gosling with this easy-to-follow flat knitting pattern! Worked top-down in one piece, with separate beak and wings to sew on, this pattern includes step-by-step instructions, photos, and video tutorials. Perfect for confident beginners ready to practice knitting flat, increases/decreases, and simple seaming techniques.
Now, if you’re more comfortable with traditional knitting — working back and forth in rows like you would with a scarf — this version is for you. You’ll knit and purl your way through, creating the body as one piece from top down (head to legs).
At the end, there’s more finishing work: you’ll sew the back seam with mattress stitch to form the body, knit the beak and wings separately, and sew them on using whipstitch. Then you embroider the eyes, just like in the round version.
It’s straightforward, relaxing, and you only need two straight needles (or circular needles if you prefer, but worked flat). No DPNs, no Magic Loop — just the basics.
So, Which Should You Choose?
Honestly? It comes down to your knitting style and what you enjoy.
Choose the in-the-round version if you:
Love seamless knitting and want minimal sewing
Enjoy knitting in the round (like socks or hats)
Want to stuff as you go and see the toy take shape instantly
Prefer knitting over seaming
Choose the flat version if you:
Prefer the rhythm of traditional knit-and-purl rows
Feel more comfortable with straight needles
Don’t mind a bit of seaming and finishing work
Are new to toy knitting and want to stick with familiar techniques
Both versions create the same adorable goosling — it’s just two different paths to get there. The in-the-round version is quicker with less finishing, while the flat version might feel more familiar if you’re used to traditional knitting.
If you’re still not sure, feel free to reach out. I’m always happy to help you choose!
1–3 months (chest circumference: 44 cm [17¼ inches])
Measurements:
Sweater width: 27 cm [10¾ inches] Sweater length (measured at the mid back): 27 cm [10¾ inches] Sleeve length (measured along the inside of the sleeve): 17 cm [6¾ inches]
Gauge:
27 sts x 37 rows in stockinette stitch on 3.5 mm [US 4] needles = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches]
Needles:
Circular needles: 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 and 60 cm [16 and 24 inches]) and 3 mm [US2½] / 40 and 60 cm [16 and 24 inches]; Double-pointed needles: 3.0 mm [US4]
Materials:
100 g Drops Baby Merino (50 g / 175 m) or a similar yarn, provided the correct gauge is obtained.
The January Sweater is worked from the top down in stockinette stitch with raglan increases. The first part of the yoke is worked back and forth on straight needles (long enough to hold all stitches comfortably) or on circular needles with a long cable for flat knitting, while the front plackets are formed along the left front raglan line. Short rows are worked at the back of the neck to shape the neckline. Once the plackets have been completed, the yoke is worked in the round on circular needles. The sleeves are worked in the round on double-pointed needles or on a long circular needle using the Magic Loop technique.
Buttonholes
First buttonhole (Row 4, RS, in 1×1 rib):
Row4(RS):
edge st, *k 1, p 1*, repeat from * to * to 6 sts before the end of the row, p 1, ssk, yo twice, p2tog, p 1 (buttonhole worked)
Row5(WS):
edge st, k 1, p 1, k through the back loop (twisted), p1 *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of row, p1
Remaining buttonholes (RS, in stockinette stitch)
Work every 3 cm [1¼ inches] along the right front placket, as follows:
Row(RS):
edge st, k 5, slip marker, M1L, *knit to marker, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker,M1L*, work from * to * a total of 3 times, knit to marker, M1R, slip marker, k1, k2tog, yo twice, ssk, p1 (8 sts have been increased)
Row(WS):
edge st, k 1, p 1, purl through the back loop (twisted), purl all sts to 2 sts before the end of the row, k 1, p 1
Cast on 100 sts on 3 mm [US 2½] straight needles (long enough to hold all stitches comfortably) or on circular needles with a long cable for flat knitting, using your preferred cast-on method (I use the long-tail cast-on).
Work in 1×1 rib, as follows:
Row1(WS):
edge st, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of row, p1
Row2(RS):
edge st, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of row, p1
Row3(WS):
edge st, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of row, p1
Row4(RS):
edge st, *k 1, p 1*, repeat from * to * to 6 sts before the end of the row, p 1, ssk, yo twice, p2tog, p 1 (buttonhole worked)
Row5(WS):
edge st, k 1, p 1, k through the back loop (twisted), p1 *k1, p1*, repeat from * to * to the end of row, p1
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until the piece measures 2 cm [¾ inch]. The next row is a RS row.
Change to 3.5 mm [US 4] needles. The work is now continued back and forth in stockinette stitch with raglan increases and later joined to be worked in the round on circular needles. The neckline is shaped using short rows, so that the back of the neck is higher than the front.
Divide the stitches for the raglan by placing stitch markers on either side of the 2 raglan stitches and next to the plackets (a total of 8 stitch markers), as follows: 6 sts (left placket), place marker, 12 sts (left sleeve), place marker, 2 sts (raglan), place marker, 27 sts (back), place marker, 2 sts (raglan), place marker, 12 sts (right sleeve), place marker, 2 sts (raglan), place marker, 31 sts (right front), place marker, 6 sts (right placket).
Increases are worked on both sides of the two central raglan stitches and along the 6-stitch front plackets. The increase to the right of the raglan or placket stitches slants right (M1R) and the increase to the left of the raglan or placket stitches slants left (M1L).
Now shape the neckline using short rows. Use the German Short Rows technique for the turns, while working raglan increases at the same time, as follows:
Row1(RS):
edge st, k 5, slip marker, M1L, k 12, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 27, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 5, turn (the turn is on right sleeve) (5 sts have been increased)
Row2(WS):
slip the first stitch purlwise to the right needle and pull the yarn over the needle to form a double stitch, p 42, turn (the turn is on the left sleeve)
Row3(RS):
slip the first stitch knitwise to the right needle and pull the yarn over the needle to form a double stitch, k 5, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 29, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 5, knit the double stitch, k 5, turn (the turn is on right sleeve) (4 sts have been increased)
Row4(WS):
slip the first stitch purlwise to the right needle and pull the yarn over the needle to form a double stitch p 50, purl the double stitch, p 5, turn (the turn is on the left sleeve)
Row5(RS):
slip the first stitch knitwise to the right needle and pull the yarn over the needle to form a double stitch, k 11, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k31, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 11, knit the double stitch, k 2, M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L, k 33, M1R, slip marker, k 5, p1 (7 sts have been increased)
Row6(WS):
edge st, k 1, purl all sts to the double stitch, purl the double stitch, purl all sts to 2 sts before the end of the row, k 1, p 1
After completing the short rows, there are 116 sts on the needles.
Continue working the yoke back and forth in stockinette stitch on RS rows, working increases along the raglan lines and the front plackets as follows:
Row(RS):
edge st, k 5, slip marker, M1L, *knit to marker,M1R, slip marker, k 2 (raglan), slip marker, M1L*, work from * to * a total of 3 times, knit to marker, M1R, slip marker, k 5, p1 (8 sts have been increased)
Row(WS):
edge st, k 1, purl all sts to 2 sts before the end of the row, k 1, p 1
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 14 times, making buttonholes every 3 cm [1¼ inches] along the right front placket.
The raglan increases are now complete. Join the work to be worked in the round on the next RS row, as follows:
Row(RS):
Edge st, k 5, place the next 44 sts on a stitch holder or a length of waste yarn (left sleeve), cast on 2 sts at the underarm, k 2 (raglan), k 61 (back), k 2 (raglan), place the next 44 sts on a stitch holder or a length of waste yarn (right sleeve), cast on 2 sts at the underarm, k 2 (raglan), k 61 (right front). Do not work the 6 sts of the right front placket. Place the 6 sts of the right front placket on top of the 6 sts of the left front placket and work them together, ( k2tog ) x 6.
Place a marker for the beginning of the round.
There are now 138 sts on the needles for the body.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the sweater measures 25 cm [9¾ inches], measured from the cast-on edge at the mid back.
Change to 3.0 mm [US 2½] circular needles and work 2 cm [¾ inch] in the round in 1×1 rib (k1, p1).
Bind off using your preferred bind-off method.
Sleeves
Place the 44 sts for one sleeve on 3.5 mm [US 4] needles. Pick up and knit 6 sts along the sts cast on at the underarm. There are now 50 sts on the needles. Place a marker for the beginning of the round after the first 3 of the newly picked up sts.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 15 cm [6 inches], measured along the inside of the sleeve, while at the same time working decreases in the 3rd round and then every 10th round a total of 5 times, as follows: k2tog, knit to the last 2 sts of the round, ssk.
There are now 40 sts on the needles.
Change to 3.0 mm [US 2½] needles and work 2 cm [¾ inch] in the round in 1×1 rib (k1, p1).
Bind off using your preferred bind-off method.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
Abbreviations
k
knit
p
purl
stockinette
stockinette stitches are made when you knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side
k2tog
knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease);
Let’s knit a simple basic bodysuit for a baby aged 1-3 months
The bodysuit worked from the bottom up. The front and back are knitted separately at first. Then the work is joined and knitted in the round, and later separated again for the front and back.
Lower Part – Front Section
Cast on 14 sts on 3.5 mm needles with your preferred cast-on method (I use long-tail cast-on).
Rows 1–9:
Edge st,k 13
Row 10 (RS):
Edge st, k3, M1L, k6, M1R, k4
Row 11 (WS):
Edge st, knit all sts
Row 12 (RS):
Edge st, k3, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4
Row 13 (WS):
Edge st, knit all sts
Work rows 12 and 13 a total of 13 times.
There are a total of 42 sts on the needle. Do not break the yarn.
Lower Part – Back Section
Cast on 14 sts on 3.5 mm needles with your preferred cast-on method (I use long-tail cast-on).
Rows1–5:
Edge st, k 13
Row 6 (RS):
Edge st, k2, yo, k2togR, k4, k2togL, yo, k3
Row 7 (WS):
Edge st, k 13 sts
Rows 8–11:
Edge st, knit 13 sts
Row 12 (RS):
Edge st, k3, M1L, k6, M1R, k4
Rows 13–15:
Edge st, knit all sts
Row 16 (RS):
Edge st, k3, M1L, knit to last 4 sts, M1R, k4
Row 17 (WS):
Edge st, knit all sts
Work rows 16 and 17 a total of 17 times.
There are a total of 50 sts on the needle. Break the yarn.
Joining Front and Back in the Round
Round1:
Knit 42 sts of front, cast on 2 new sts, knit 50 sts of back, cast on 2 new sts – 96 sts
Round2:
purl 96 sts
Round3:
knit 96 sts
Work in garter stitch. Repeat rounds 2 and 3 to a height of 16 cm. Knit the last round with knit stitches.
If you want to make the seam between rows less noticeable, knit each row with purl stitches as follows: purl to last 1 st on the needle.
Divide the Work into Front and Back
Purl 42 sts, bind off 2 sts, purl 49 sts, bind off 2 sts
Front Section
Row 1 (RS):
Edge st, k3, k2togL, knit to last 6 sts, k2togR, k4
Row 2 (WS):
Edge st, knit all sts
Work rows 1–2 a total of 10 times.
There are a total of 22 sts on the needle.
Rows19–22:
Edge st, knit all sts
Row23:
Edge st, k3, yo, k2togR, k10, k2togR, yo, k4
Rows24–26:
Edge st, knit all sts
Bind off 22 sts with your preferred bind-off technique (I use a sewing needle).
Back Section
Row 1(RS):
Edge st, k3, k2togL, knit to last 6 sts, k2togR, k4
Row2(WS):
Edge st, knit all sts
Work rows 1–2 a total of 14 times.
There are a total of 22 sts on the needle.
Rows31–38:
Edge st, knit all sts
Bind off 22 sts with your preferred bind-off technique.
Straps
Pick up and knit 6 sts on each side of the back to form the straps.
Work in garter stitch until the strap measures 12–13 cm.
Bind off stitches with your preferred bind-off technique.
The sweater is worked flat in rows from the top down. The sleeves are also worked flat.
At the end, the sweater is seamed along the back, and the sleeves are seamed as well.
Cast on 48 stitches using your preferred cast-on method (I use the long-tail cast-on).
The knitting begins with a wrong side (WS) row on the WS.
Row1(WS):
p 1, [ p 1, k 1 ] x 23, p 1 – 48 sts
Row2(RS):
k 1, [ p 1, k 1 ] x 23, k 1 – 48 sts
Repeat rows 1 and 2 1 more time. The next row is 5.
Row 5 (WS):
p 1, [ p 1, k 1 ] x 23, p 1 – 48 sts
Row 6 (RS):
k 1, [ k 2, M1L ] x 23, k 1 – 71 sts
Rows7-11:
71 stitches in stockinette
Row 12 (RS):
k 14, place the next 10 stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, cast on 2 new stitches, k 24, place the next 10 stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn, cast on 2 new stitches, k 13 – 55 stitches
Rows 13-25:
71 stitches in stockinette
Row 26 (RS):
k 1, ssk, p 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 25, k 1 – 54 sts
Row 27 (WS):
p 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 26, p 1 – 54 sts
Row 28 (RS):
k 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 26, k 1 – 54 sts
Row29(WS):
p 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 26, p 1 – 54 sts
Bind off 54 stitches using your preferred bind-off method.
Break the yarn, leaving a 30-35 cm tail.
Proceed to knitting the sleeves.
Sleeves
Place the 10 stitches for one sleeve onto the needles. Pick up and knit 3 stitches along the underarm cast-on edge of the body, knit 10 stitches, then pick up and knit 3 stitches along the underarm cast-on edge again.
Rows 2-10:
16 stitches in stockinette
Row11(RS):
k 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 7, k 1 – 16 sts
Row 12 (WS):
p 1, [ k 1, p 1 ] x 7, p 1 – 16 sts
Bind off 16 stitches using your preferred bind-off method.
Break the yarn, leaving a 20 cm tail.
Weave in the short tails inside the toy; leave the long tails for further seaming.
You should be left with 3 working yarn tails.
Sew the sweater along the back using mattress stitch.
Now move on to seaming the sleeves. Sew them using the mattress stitch.
The sweater is finished. All that’s left is to weave in the remaining ends and give it a wash. You can decorate the sweater however you like — for example, by adding some embroidery.
This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or redistributed in any way. Share your work and tag me on Instagram/Youtube: maylily knitting Happy knitting!
the height of the toy may vary depending on the yarn used and the number of knitting needles
Needles:
straight needles 3.5 mm (long enough to hold all stitches comfortably) or circular needles 3.5 mm with a long cable for flat knitting or use knitting needles 1-1.5 sizes smaller than recommended for yarn
Materials:
30 g yarn Drops Soft Tweed (50g/130m), black embroidery thread for eyes and nose or another yarn
For example: 50g/130m Drops Soft Tweed on 3.50 mm needles produces a toy 17 cm high
The Little Teddy Bear is knitted flat in rows from the top down, in one piece from head to legs. The hands, nose and ears are worked separately and sewn on. Finishing includes seaming all parts with mattress stitch (or whipstitch where specified).
Cast on 32 stitches using your preferred cast-on method (I use the long-tail cast-on). The knitting begins with a wrong side (WS) row on the WS.
Row1(WS):
purl 32 sts The first and last stitches are worked according to the pattern – this applies to all rows throughout the project.
Row 2 (RS):
k 5, M1L, k 8, M1L, k 7, M1L, k 8, M1L, k 4 – 36 sts
Rows 3‑19:
36 sts in stockinette
Row20(RS):
k 5, M1L, k 9, M1L, k 8, M1L, k 9, M1L, k 5 – 40 sts
Rows 21‑23:
40 sts in stockinette
Row 24 (RS):
k 5, M1L, k 10, M1L, k 9, M1L, k 10, M1L, k 6 – 44 sts
Row 25 (WS):
purl 44 sts
Row 26 (RS):
k 44 sts Mark the 11th and 12th stitches, and the 32th and 33th stitches.
Row27(WS):
purl 44 sts
Row28(RS):
k 11, M1L, k 10, M1R, k 2, M1L, k 10, M1L, k 11- 48 sts
Rows 29-31:
48 sts in stockinette
Row 32 (RS):
k 23, M1R, k 2, M1L, k 23 – 50 sts
Rows 33-35:
50 sts in stockinette
Row 36 (RS):
k 24, M1R, k 2, M1L, k 24 – 52 sts
Row 37 (WS):
purl 52 sts
Row 38 (RS):
k 25, M1R, k 2, M1L, k 25 – 54 sts
Rows 39‑43:
54 sts in stockinette
Row 44 (RS):
k 4, ssk, k 12, k2tog, k 14, ssk, k 12, k2tog, k 4 – 50 sts
Rows 45‑47:
50 sts in stockinette
Row 48 (RS):
k 18, [ ssk, k 2 ] x 2, k2tog, k 2, k2tog, k 18 – 46 sts
Row49(WS):
purl 46 sts
Row 50 (RS):
k 17, [ ssk] x 3, [ k2tog ]x 3, k 17 – 40 sts
Row 51 (WS):
purl 40 sts
Row 52 (WS):
bind off 4 stitches, k 13 stitches, bind off 6 stitches, k 13 stitches, bind off 4 stitches
Cut the yarn, leaving a 30-35 cm tail. Next, continue with the legs.
Place the remaining 13 stitches on a holder, scrap yarn, or another needle. Join a new yarn. Start knitting from the right side.
Rows 1-10:
13 sts in stockinette
Row 11 (RS):
k 1, [ ssk, k 1] x 4 – 9 sts
Row 12 (WS):
purl 9 sts
Break the yarn, leaving a 10–15 cm tail. Thread the yarn through the remaining 9 stitches, pull tight to close, secure, and weave in the end. Repeat the process for the second leg.
Join a new yarn and work the second leg the same way as the first, starting from row 1. Break the yarn, leaving a 30-35 cm tail. Transfer 9 stitches onto the yarn using a yarn needle and pull tight.
Sewing along the back
Weave in the short tails inside the toy; leave the long tails for further seaming. You should be left with 2 working yarn tails. Sew the body along the back using mattress stitch.
Seaming the bottom
Now move on to seaming the bottom. Seam from one leg to the other.
Sew the leg with mattress stitch, sew the center section (between the legs) using whipstitch, then sew the second leg with mattress stitch.
Stuff the bear and move on to sewing the upper part with a new yarn.
Sewing the upper part
Find 2 central stitches along which increases were made. Mark the middle.
Count 7 stitches to the right and insert the needle into the seventh stitch. On the other side: Skip 1 stitch, and insert the needle into the next stitch. (Watch here this moment.)
Sew the upper section using whipstitch.
Leave in tails inside the toy.
Hands
Cast on 6 stitches using your preferred cast-on method, leaving a 25-30 cm tail (this will be used later to sew the hand). I use long tail cast-on method. The knitting begins with a wrong side (WS) row on the WS.
Row 1 (WS):
purl 6 sts
Row 2 (RS):
k 1, [ k 1, M1L ] x 4, k 1-10 sts
Rows 3‑21:
10 sts in stockinette
Transfer any 5 stitches to a separate needle. Fold the hand in half and k together the stitches from both needles and bind off.
Pull the lower end of the yarn through 6 stitches. Sew the hand using mattress stitch. Stuff the hand as sewing.
Knit the second hand the same way. Sew the hands to the marked stitches using whipstitch.
Ears
Cast on 8 stitches using your preferred cast-on method, leaving a yarn tail of about 15–20 cm. I use long tail cast-on method. The knitting begins with a wrong side (WS) row on the WS.
Rows1‑10:
8 sts in stockinette
You should get a square shape (adjust the number of rows if necessary). Break the yarn, leaving a 15–20 cm tail. Thread the yarn through the 8 stitches, pull tight, and secure.
Pull the yarn tail from the cast-on edge through the 8 stitches, pull tight, and secure.
Then tie the two yarn tails together — this will form a semicircle. Knit the second ear the same way.Sew them on using any method you prefer.
Nose
Cast on 20 stitches using your preferred cast-on method (I use the long-tail cast-on). The knitting begins with a wrong side (WS) row on the WS.
Row6(RS):
k 1, [ k 1, k2tog, k2tog, k 1 ] x 3, k 1 – 14 sts
Row7(WS):
p 1, [ p2tog ] x 6, p 1 – 8 sts
Break the yarn, leaving a 20-25 cm tail. Pull the yarn through 8 stitches. Sew the nose using mattress stitch. Stuff the nose and sew to the head using whipstitch. Embroider the nose and eyes with black thread.
Abbreviations
k
knit
p
purl
stockinette
stockinette stitches are made when you knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side
k2tog
knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease);
ssk
slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease);
p2tog
purl 2 together (right-leaning decrease);
ssp
slip, slip, purl (left-leaning decrease);
M1L
make 1 left (increase leaning to the left);
M1R
make 1 right (increase leaning to the right);
st(s)
stitch(es)
RS
right side
WS
wrong side
edge st
slip the first stitch of the row purlwise with yarn in front
Cast on 46 + 1 stitch using your preferred cast‑on method.
Join to work in the round.
Rounds1‑6:
[k1, p1] × 23 – 46 sts
Round7:
(k2, M1L) × 23 – 69 sts
Rounds8‑12:
knit all 69 sts
Round 13: knit 4 sts, place next 8 sts on stitch holder (sleeve), cast on 2 new sts, knit 26 sts (front), place next 8 sts on stitch holder (sleeve), cast on 2 new sts, knit 24 sts (back)
Rounds14‑24:
Knit all 57 sts
Round25:
ssk, p1, [k1, p1] × 27 – 56 sts
Rounds26‑27:
[k1, p1] × 28 – 56 sts
Bind off 56 sts.
Sleeves (make 2)
Return 8 held sts to the needles.
Pick up and knit 6 sts at the underarm (14 sts total).
Place marker for beginning of round.
Rounds2‑10:
knit all 14 sts.
Rounds11‑13:
[k1, p1] × 7 – 14 sts
Bind off all sts.
Close small holes at underarm while weaving in ends.
Autumn is the perfect time for cozy projects, and these little knitted mushrooms make a charming decoration or gift. Even beginners can follow this pattern, as it’s worked in simple rounds with easy increases and decreases.
Needles & Materials
Before you start, gather your supplies:
• Needles: 2.5–3 mm
• Yarn: leftover yarn in two colors
• Gauge: not essential
• Construction: knit in the round using Magic Loop
• Difficulty: Beginner-friendly
Abbreviations
Here are the abbreviations used in this pattern:
k
knit
p
purl
k2tog
knit 2 stitches together
M1L
make 1 left increase
sts
stitches
Stem
We’ll start with the stem, which is a simple cylinder shape.
Step 1:
Cast on 5 sts using any cast-on method. Join to work in the round.
Round 1:
k5
Round 2:
(k1, M1L) ×5 – 10 sts
Round 3–17:
k10
Finishing the stem:
Break yarn, pull tail through 5 remaining sts, tighten and weave in.
Stuff the stem lightly.
Cap Increases
Now we’ll start the cap, beginning with gradual increases to give it a rounded shape. Attach the cap color.
Attach cap color.
Round 18:
(k1, M1L) ×10 – 20 sts
Round 19:
k20
Round 20:
(k2, M1L) ×10 – 30 sts
Round 21:
k30
Round 22:
k30
Round 23:
p30
These rounds form the wide, round shape of the mushroom cap.
Cap Body
Maintain the width of the cap for a few rounds:
Round 24–26:
k30
This gives the cap a full, natural look before we begin decreasing.
Cap Decreases
To finish the cap, we’ll decrease stitches gradually to create a smooth top.
Round 27:
(k2tog, k3) ×6 – 24 sts
Round 28:
k24
Round 29:
(k1, k2tog, k1) ×6 – 18 sts
Round 30:
k18
Round 31:
(k2tog, k1) ×6 – 12 sts
Round 32:
(k2tog) ×6 – 6 sts
Break yarn, thread tail through 6 sts, tighten to close, weave in.
Stuff before closing
Your cozy autumn mushroom is now complete! You can make several in different colors and sizes to create a charming fall display. These mushrooms also make adorable handmade gifts or seasonal decorations.
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Functional
Always active
The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network.
Preferences
The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user.
Statistics
The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes.The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you.
Marketing
The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes.
